A Homemade Life Page 2
That’s why this book is called A Homemade Life. Because, in a sense, that’s what we’re building—you, me, all of us who like to stir and whisk—in the kitchen and at the table. In the simple acts of cooking and eating, we are creating and continuing the stories that are our lives.
HOW TO USE THE RECIPES IN THIS BOOK
I don’t like being told what to do. In fact, when I see this page in a cookbook, I usually skip right over it. Of course, as a result, I’ve messed up quite a number of recipes.
So before we get this show on the road, as my mother says, I’d like to give you a few pointers. That way, you can make the recipes in this book without a hitch, right from start. Oh, the irony, I know.
Before you so much as lift a finger toward the stove or oven, read through the entire recipe, ingredients and instructions. That way, you’ll know exactly what lies ahead of you.
Buy an oven thermometer. You can get one at any grocery store, and it’ll be the best five bucks you’ve ever spent. Most ovens do not run true to the temperature on the dial, but with an oven thermometer inside, it doesn’t matter. You can just peek in, see what the temperature reads, and adjust the dial as needed. My oven, for instance, always runs about 10 degrees too cool. When I want it at 350°F, I’ve learned, I have to set it for 360°F instead. (I could also, I suppose, have the oven guy come out and calibrate it, but even then, I would still keep the thermometer around.)
Buy a kitchen scale. Many common ingredients—chocolate, for one—cannot be measured reliably by volume. A cup of chopped chocolate is not the same around the world: we all chop our chocolate to different sizes, so no cupful is identical. But one pound of chocolate is always one pound of chocolate, no matter how you chop it. So in most cases, when I call for chocolate, I call for a quantity by weight. (Except where chocolate chips are concerned; those are pretty well standardized.)
When I measure flour, I use the spoon-and-level method. Short of switching over entirely to weight measurements, that’s what I recommend. Whenever I open a sack of flour, I stir well with a spoon to aerate it, then I spoon it lightly into my measuring cup until it heaps above the rim. Then I sweep the straight edge of a knife across the top to level it, letting the excess flour fall back into the bag.
Last but not least, clean up as you go. My father taught me that, and I thank him for it almost every day. When you’re cooking, if you have time—any time at all—to stop and wash a few dishes or wipe the counter, do it. It’ll mean less mess in the end, which means more time to enjoy your food, your company, your day, all of it.
A PLACE TO START
I had meant to start with something more glamorous than potato salad. I always thought it would be good to begin with hors d’oeuvres, something appetizing and sexy, or maybe dessert, to cut right to the chase. A bowl of chunked potatoes in creamy dressing isn’t any of those things. But when you grow up under the wing of someone who felt as strongly about potato salad as my father did, your priorities are special.
Plus, you can tell a lot about someone by their potato salad. I like to think of it as the Rorschach test of foods. Potato salad means many things to many people. For some, it means mostly mayonnaise and starch; for others, it means oil and vinegar and fresh herbs. Some people add eggs; others swear by pickles. For Burg, as we called my father—a nickname my mother made up, a shortened version (and inexplicable misspelling) of our last name—it was something in between. Like his potato salad, he was hard to pin down.
I guess the first thing to point out about his recipe is the presence of Ranch dressing. I’m not sure how to make much sense of it, since Burg was, in all other cases, against bottled salad dressing. He was a staunch advocate for homemade—the house vinaigrette maker, in fact, with a dedicated jar and a complex system for creating his signature slurry of oil, vinegar, mustard, and herbs. But he was also full of contradictions. He was a doctor who never went to the doctor, a Republican on fiscal issues and a Democrat on social ones. He had a fat belly and pencil legs. He was, by the calendar, an old man, but he had an almost full head of black hair. He was a Francophile with terrible French. He liked foie gras on the one hand and Ranch dressing on the other. And I can’t really blame him. It tastes good.
Then, of course, there were the caraway seeds. His recipe calls for one to two teaspoons’ worth. He liked them in almost everything. Whenever he bought sandwich bread, it was Jewish rye, flecked with those tiny, canoe-shaped seeds. He was the son of Polish Jews, so they were in his blood, I imagine, along with bagels and beet soup. But much to his mother’s chagrin, that was about as Jewish as he got. He married two shiksas (one a Catholic, even) and raised nonreligious children. I remember once, as a kid during the Gulf War, hearing one of my father’s cousins in Toronto say something about Tel Aviv, worrying that it might come under missile attack. I’d never heard of Tel Aviv. I thought she had mispronounced “TV,” and that our television was some sort of military target. I would hear scarcely more about Israel until I was in high school and took a world history class, and it would take my going away to college to learn what Passover was, when I read parts of the Bible in a Western civilization course. I’ve always known, however, what a caraway seed was.
Then there’s mayonnaise. My father did not mess around when it came to mayonnaise. His potato salad called for 1¾ pounds of baby red potatoes and, to bind them, a ballsy 3/4 cup of mayonnaise (mixed, of course, with Ranch dressing). If my math is correct, that works out to approximately one tablespoon of mayonnaise per small potato. You can’t be timid when you’re dealing with ratios like that. You have to be the type to go after life with your arms open and your teeth bared. That’s the type Burg was.
He could be pouty, of course, and a real huffer-and-puffer. His favorite weapon was the silent treatment, and he wielded it with impressive skill. But he had more love, and more passion, and more enthusiasm for pretty much everything than you and me combined. He loved being a doctor. He loved Dixieland jazz. He loved the old Alfa Romeo Spider that sat in the driveway and never ran. He loved crossword puzzles, Dylan Thomas, and Gene Krupa banging on a drum kit on the stereo upstairs. He loved omelets and olives; murder mysteries and short stories; and a hideously ugly ceramic wild boar that sat on his bathroom counter. He loved his children, even while he forgot our birthdays; loved a cold beer on Saturday at noon; loved lamb shanks, smelly cheese, and my mother in high heels; loved mayonnaise, and me.
He was the kind of person who could teach you a lot of important things, such as how to ride a bicycle or drive a stick shift, or that dill and potatoes were made for each other. He always put dill in his potato salad. We had a kitchen garden out back that he and my mother planted, thick with tomatoes and herbs. He would rub rosemary under the skin of roasting chickens and stir thyme into his corn chowder. He got such a kick out of that garden. He taught me to make pesto from the basil we grew there, using a recipe by James Beard, who I’m sure, would have gotten a kick out of it, too.
When your father dies, especially if he is older, people like to say things such as, “He was so lucky. He lived a long, full life.” It’s hard to know what to say to that. What often comes to mind is, “Yes, you’re right. He was seventy-three, so I guess it was his time. But did you know him? Did you see how he was? He bought wine futures seven months before he died. He saw patients the afternoon he was diagnosed. He wasn’t finished.”
My father woke up each morning wanting that day. You could see it on his face. He was the one at the end of the table, laughing so hard that his round face split open like an overripe watermelon and his fillings shone darkly like seeds. He laughed so hard that he gagged a little and pulled out his handkerchief to wipe his mouth. He knew what he had, and he loved it.
He could have taught me a lot of things. We’d hardly begun. But I have his recipe for potato salad, and when all else fails, it’s a place to start.
BURG’S POTATO SALAD
i am biased, no doubt, but I love this potato salad. The key is to prepare it the d
ay before you want to eat it. It needs to sit overnight in the refrigerator, so that the flavors can mix and mingle, so to speak.
Also, you’ll note that I’ve made the caraway seeds optional. Not everyone loves caraway seeds as much as Burg did, and I’m sure he wouldn’t mind if you left them out. (I usually do.)
FOR THE SALAD
1¾ pounds red waxy potatoes, scrubbed
4 large eggs
8 scallions (white and pale green parts only), thinly sliced
¼ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
FOR THE DRESSING
¾ cup mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s/Best Foods or homemade
4 tablespoons bottled Ranch dressing, preferably Hidden Valley
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill
1 to 2 teaspoons caraway seeds (optional)
Put the potatoes in a Dutch oven or large saucepan and add cold water to cover by 1 inch. Add a generous dash of salt, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, uncovered, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a small, thin knife, about 15 minutes. Drain them into a colander, rinse with cold water, and set them aside to cool. (If you’re in a hurry, put them in the refrigerator to speed the process along. You want the potatoes to be completely cool when you dress them.) When the potatoes are cool, cut them into rough 1-inch chunks. For the smaller potatoes, I halve them; for the bigger ones, I cut them into quarters or eighths. Put them in a large bowl.
Meanwhile, cook the eggs. Place them in a small saucepan, and add cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. When the water begins to boil, remove the pan from the heat, cover it, and let it sit for exactly 12 minutes. Immediately pour off the hot water and run plenty of cold water over the eggs. When the eggs are cool, peel them, chop them coarsely, and add them to the bowl of potatoes. Add the scallions, sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt, and toss to mix.
In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, Ranch dressing, dill, and caraway seeds, if using. Pour the dressing over the potato mixture, and stir to evenly coat. Taste, and adjust the salt as needed. Cover and refrigerate overnight before serving.
Yield: about 6 servings
THE BAKER IN THE FAMILY
While we’re in the business of getting started, I’d like you to meet my mother, too. I think you’ll like her. It’s hard not to.
For one thing, she’s quite petite; barely over five feet tall. “Five feet and three-quarter inches,” actually, is what she would tell you. When someone hugs her, she almost disappears, swallowed up in arms and fabric. Like those impossibly tiny lamps and teacups you find in doll-houses, she inspires a lot of cooing, and though she’s very assertive, people often want to pat her on the head. Luckily, she has a special trick for times like these, when a little height would come in handy: she can trot around in a pair of high heels as though they were bedroom slippers. Legend has it that she wore them straight through her pregnancy with me, with nary a swollen ankle to be seen. She may be eligible for the senior discount at the movie theater, but she’s very much a fox. She also, incidentally, makes a fine pound cake, and between you and me, that’s the clincher.
My mother is the baker in the family. It’s always been that way. She can make all manner of things, but in most cases, my father was the savory cook and my mother, the sweet. He was the mad scientist, the Benjamin Franklin type, flying his kite in the proverbial lightning storm, while my mother is more of the pastry chef ilk: methodical and precise, with measuring cups and measuring spoons and much less mess. She loves recipes, and she executes them exactly. That’s a trait she passed down to me, along with a load of others for which I am very grateful. It’s from my mother that I learned how to plan a menu, how to throw a dinner party, how to keep a check register, and how to spit cherry pits from the window of a moving car. She also taught me that, when in San Francisco and in need of a bathroom, all you have to do is walk commandingly into the stately Campton Place Hotel, as though you had legitimate business there, and cut through the lobby to the bathroom on the left. That’s a skill that has come in handy more often than you might think.
We weren’t the type of family to have dessert every night, but when the occasion demanded it, my mother shook out her apron and got to work. She made Katharine Hepburn’s famous brownies for my school bake sale and, for my birthday, a pink layer cake from a Junior League cookbook, slathered with raspberry frosting. For dinner parties, she made apple crisp with walnuts and brown sugar or nectarine cobbler with blueberries. I’ve never had her chocolate cheesecake, but I’ve heard about it: namely, that she once, on a whim, set it atop the scale, and it weighed in at a terrifying five pounds. That’s why I’ve never had it. She rarely made it again.
My mother’s annual holiday baking bonanza was, until it petered out a few years ago, the highlight of the season for a sizable fraction of Oklahoma City. The Saturday before Christmas, she and I would load up the backseat with cookie tins, each lined with red or green cellophane and filled with sweets, and we’d drive around town, delivering them to the doorsteps of family friends. It’s the closest I ever came to having a paper route.
Then, of course, there was her blueberry-raspberry pound cake, a perennial classic. It lay dormant for the bulk of each year but awoke without fail in July to accompany us to picnics and barbecues. It’s scented with kirsch and shot through with berries, and it is delicious. To me, it’s what summer tastes like. My mother found the recipe in a magazine article about food processors, and it’s been in her repertoire ever since.
Most years, the cake made its seasonal debut at one of the outdoor jazz concerts at the Oklahoma City Museum of Art. This was back when my mother used to volunteer there, and when the museum was housed in the old Buttram Mansion. In the summers, the museum would host jazz concerts on its back lawn on Saturday nights, on the wide strip of grass that ran down to the rectangular reflecting pool and a marble statue of the Three Graces. Admission was free, and the better part of the neighborhood would come, toting blankets and picnic baskets. My parents had a wicker picnic basket that opened at the top like a present, and they’d fill it with cold roasted chicken, Burg’s potato salad, and blanched green beans with vinaigrette, along with some sort of dessert, which, at least a couple of times each summer, was my mother’s pound cake. While it was still light outside, we would unfold the blanket and eat dinner, and then, before dessert, I would be allowed to run around the grounds until dark. I usually got to invite a friend along, and we would torment the toads in the grass near the reflecting pool or, when I was brave enough, climb trees. (I hate splinters.) Once, during the summer after first grade, my friend Jessica and I invited our mutual crush Lucas to come to a concert with us, and she tortured me by saying that she planned to take him up into one of the trees and kiss him. Much to my relief, she didn’t, and anyway, we all drifted out of touch not long after. But fifteen years later, when we were twenty-two, I ran into Lucas while shopping with my mother in a grocery store in Tulsa and spent the next three years as his girlfriend. I am very proud of that, especially because I didn’t have to get any splinters to make it happen.
I know there are a million recipes out there for pound cake, and probably berry versions, too, but as you can see, I consider this one to be very important. It accompanied me through some crucial times. It’s also delicious, and it’s my mother’s, and more than any of that, it has the lightest, most delicate crumb I’ve ever seen on a pound cake. In fact, I’m tempted to call it a butter cake instead, because the word pound is too heavy for what is actually going on here. It’s rich, yes, but not too much so, and its crumb is fine and tender. The batter is very smooth, and folded gently around fragile berries and scented with fruity liqueur, it bakes up into the kind of cake that you can’t help but want to eat outdoors. Preferably on a picnic blanket, with your mother.
BLUEBERRY–RASPBERRY POUND CAKE
i love this cake as is, of course, but because I happen to live near a thick
et of blackberry bushes, I’ve discovered that they are also lovely here, in place of the usual blueberries and raspberries. For that variation, I recommend omitting the kirsch (it’s a bit too fruity for the dark flavor of blackberries) and instead adding 1 teaspoon each of grated orange and lemon zest with the flour.
2 cups plus 8 tablespoons cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
5 large eggs
12/3 cups sugar
2½ cups (10 ounces) unsalted butter, diced, at room temperature
2 tablespoons kirsch
1 cup blueberries, rinsed and dried well
1 cup raspberries, rinsed and dried well
Set an oven rack to the middle position, and preheat the oven to 300°F. Butter a standard-sized 9-cup Bundt pan and dust it with flour, shaking out any excess. (If your pan is nonstick, you can get away with a simple coating of cooking spray, no flour needed.)
In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 cups plus 6 tablespoons flour, the baking powder, and salt.
In the bowl of a food processor, blend the eggs and sugar until thick and pale yellow, about 1 minute. Add the butter and kirsch, and blend until the mixture is fluffy, about 1 minute, stopping once to scrape down the sides of the bowl. If the mixture looks curdled, don’t worry. Add the dry ingredients and process to just combine. Do not overmix. The batter should be thick and very smooth.